This was quite an adventure for me.    I was on a boat for 12 days with 6 girls, three filmers and a writer.  Throughout this trip to Indonesia I was able to really find out where my surfing is going and where I need to take it.  Everyday I would go out and surf reef breaks that would allow me to experiment with my surfing.  I realized that this is a training ground to learn how to become the best surfer.  Being on the boat with Stephanie Gilmore, Sofia Mulanivich, and Silvana Lima gave me that extra edge to go bigger and push my limits.  Their influence on me was great.  Everyday I couldn’t get enough waves.  I wanted to get all the waves possible so that when I got home I was all surfed out.  The different locations that we surfed gave us a variety of the best waves in the world.  You don’t get that everyday as a surfer so you have to take advantage of it while you can.  We surfed Macaroni’s, Lance’s right and left, Bintang, Roxy’s, Scarecrow’s, Telescopes, Iceland’s, and Bat caves.  I broke my board and leash at macaroni’s and buckled a board at lance’s right.  I would say that my favorite spots were Macaroni’s and Bintang’s because they had completely different characteristics that I really liked.  I didn’t really think that Iceland’s was fun because it was super mushy but it could have been because the swell direction was completely wrong on that particular day.

While we were there we visited a village that had been affected by an earthquake last year.  It was completely demolished.  There was nothing left of their village except for broken up homes.  We visited the people that had lived in the village but had to relocate higher up the hill and rebuild their homes.  When we arrived to the village the first thing I noticed was their water source.  It seemed to have some sort of filtration system, however if we drank it we would definitely become really sick.  Their homes were made out of wood walls and tin roofs.  What touched me were all the smiles on the village children’s faces.  They were so happy even though they had very little or no material possessions.  At home you can always witness angry and upset kids because they didn’t get some toy or the latest gadget.  But here the kids found happiness in the smallest things.  An old tire and a stick would be turned into the newest toy and game.  They would be laughing and smiling so big all you saw was happiness in them.

Traveling Quivers

Peace and quiet

Island