Thu, 6 Nov 2008
Posted at 12:30:00 PM
Sitting on the porch in the shade watching butterflies flutter, birds swoop between trees, the breeze is cool, the waves are crashing loudly just out of sight, and I appreciate how much the...Read Now! | Comments (6) |
Tue, 28 Oct 2008
Posted at 07:00:00 PM
I had somehow survived 28 years living in Los Angeles without making the pilgrimage to the city of sin, a fact that surprised every cab driver and nearly everyone else. Much preferring an early...Read Now! | Comments (2) |
Fri, 10 Oct 2008
Posted at 06:00:00 PM
I've been a little bit shy about paddling out with a camera tacked onto the nose of my board. As a pro surfer, it is my job to be a "photo slut". The more photos I get with my sponsors' logos...Read Now! | Comments (0) |
Thu, 9 Oct 2008
Posted at 04:00:00 PM
Nearly a full two years ago, I was turning 26. My boyfriend and I had just finished a two year project of building The Super Camper from scratch, and took it on its maiden voyage to Baja. A...Read Now! | Comments (2) |
Wed, 8 Oct 2008
Posted at 05:00:00 PM
There’s a crystal ball at the top of that mountain. I’ll race you to it. Barefoot feet slip-sliding up red silty mud, toes dodging rocks dodging tree roots dodging too much...Read Now! | Comments (0) |
Thu, 11 Sep 2008
Posted at 06:30:00 PM
Ok, I don't think I can take it anymore. Sure, I like warm water, but I prefer wearing my wetsuit - no worries about sunscreen, keeping a bikini top in place, or that creepy guy that always...Read Now! | Comments (1) |
Mon, 25 Aug 2008
Posted at 11:30:00 AM
After two weeks in Tahiti covering the Billabong Pro for Go211.com , I shifted gears when team Body Glove arrived. From watching, reacting, and discussing the action as a spectator, I jumped...Read Now! | Comments (1) |
Sun, 10 Aug 2008
Posted at 07:00:00 PM
Yesterday I was inspired. I assure you it had nothing to do with the waist high, slow moving, 73 degree peelers that capped out the back and cruised through to dump on the inside onto the large...Read Now! | Comments (0) |
Sun, 20 Jul 2008
Posted at 11:00:00 AM
I've been competing in the US Open since I was 17. The first time there were so many entrants they actually held trials heats at Oceanside. I remember being so excited and intimidated. It was...Read Now! | Comments (0) |
Mon, 19 May 2008
Posted at 01:30:00 PM
After spending the first day of the Billabong Pro, floating in the lineup, I caught a ride out to the judging scaffolding to check the view from that angle. On day 2, the waves were...Read Now! | Comments (0) |
Tue, 13 May 2008
Posted at 11:30:00 PM
The Australians often pray to a wave god named Huey. Huey is usually called up during long-lasting waiting periods or in the last few seconds of heats. Today, Huey smiled on contest director...Read Now! | Comments (0) |
Sun, 11 May 2008
Posted at 02:00:00 PM
The Teahupoo sign at the end of the road. The view looking out towards the scaffolding is definitely not what you expect. Clear water, sunshine, sure, but flat waves? Competitors and...Read Now! | Comments (0) |
Mon, 24 Mar 2008
Posted at 04:59:36 PM
While there are 44 male WCT competitors, there are only 17 women on tour which makes for a much closer group. Girls are girls of course and there is the occassional disagreement, but for the...Read Now! | Comments (0) |
Fri, 21 Mar 2008
Posted at 12:38:25 AM
This morning the surf was anywhere from 6ft (if you're Hawaiian) to 10ft (for an Australian) up to 12 ft (as a Californian) but due to the strong onshore wind and stormy conditions, everyone...Read Now! | Comments (0) |
Wed, 19 Mar 2008
Posted at 11:14:51 PM
After two days without any action out at the famed Bells Beach lineup, this morning we awoke to a warm sun, strong offshores, and a building swell, perfect for Rounds 1 and 2 of the women's Rip...Read Now! | Comments (0) |
Tue, 18 Mar 2008
Posted at 04:16:20 PM
Yesterday was unbelivably hot. The forecast was calling for temperatures in excess of 36 degrees Celsius which translated to Farenheit is the kind of sitting in the shade not moving but still...Read Now! | Comments (0) |
Sun, 2 Mar 2008
Posted at 05:29:57 PM
I'm wearing plenty of sunscreen while watching the girls, unlike Transworld Surf's Justin Cote! Saturday morning in Australia and a nice little swell that you could almost call...Read Now! | Comments (0) |
Wed, 27 Feb 2008
Posted at 05:47:22 PM
GO211.com filmer, capturing all the action! Round 2 is usually one of the less exciting rounds of WCT competition. It is the first time that competitors are sent packing, but most of the time...Read Now! | Comments (0) |
Tue, 26 Feb 2008
Posted at 12:19:26 AM
Yesterday was rained out and today I thought might be the same. After making the competitors hang around for a few hours while waiting to see if the rain cleared or the swell improved, eventually...Read Now! | Comments (0) |
Sun, 24 Feb 2008
Posted at 01:41:21 AM
Dbah this morning Another 4am wake-up that I can blame entirely on jetlag actually earned me some waves this morning. After a quick cup of coffee in the dark, I bypassed Snapper and ran...Read Now! | Comments (0) |
Sat, 23 Feb 2008
Posted at 02:03:23 AM
I awoke this morning at 4am with a head full of jet-lag fuzziness. A couple hours later, a quick check of the surf revealed weak waist-high mush-burgers slowly piddling...Read Now! | Comments (0) |
Mon, 11 Feb 2008
Posted at 07:29:34 PM
I remember thinking, "so this is what it would feel like to die of hypothermia." I was surprised that I didn't actually feel cold. I expected something along the lines of a full-body ice...Read Now! | Comments (0) |
Sat, 17 Nov 2007
Posted at 12:17:27 PM
Every year I look forward to my season spent on the North Shore. I love running around barefoot in boardshorts and a bikini top with a pack of crazy friends. I love waking up to coffee...Read Now! | Comments (1) |
Fri, 9 Nov 2007
Posted at 06:21:19 PM
Recently, I received an email from a friend who just returned from a trip to Japan during which a group of surfers tried to stop the killing of dolphins. Watch this horrific and moving clip, then...Read Now! | Comments (0) |
Fri, 2 Nov 2007
Posted at 02:52:02 PM
Despite the fact that we were told there was a 90% chance the contest would start today, it was postponed once more. The contest site is a bit like Haleiwa on the North Shore of Oahu....Read Now! | Comments (0) |
Wed, 10 Oct 2007
Posted at 02:18:10 PM
Pro surfer, Alex Gray, pro wakeboarder Jeff McKee, and myself, hanging out on the boat in La Paz, Mexico. photo: Justin Lewis We were told it would look like a bus, an...Read Now! | Comments (0) |
Sat, 29 Sep 2007
Posted at 07:38:05 PM
Having not surfed in a long while, I eagerly checked the surf forecast while packing for France. More than half a month earlier I had returned from a long summer of travels with a few contests...Read Now! | Comments (0) |
Mon, 24 Sep 2007
Posted at 10:35:13 PM
If you haven't had a chance to check out Nicaragua, it's time to get down there! I've travelled all over the world, Bali, Mentawais, Australia, Fiji, Tahiti, Mexico, France, the...Read Now! | Comments (0) |
Tue, 19 Jun 2007
Posted at 04:07:18 PM
photo: Ty Sawyer photo: Ty Sawyer Looking out the window on the descent from 30,000ft at the view of a smooth ocean without the usual thick reef cover of white wash, indicating...Read Now! | Comments (0) |
Wed, 30 May 2007
Posted at 11:08:31 AM
One time in Sao Tome, I offered to paddle a village boy into a wave. He was probably only ten years old, and when I waved him over he left...Read Now! | Comments (0) |
Fri, 18 May 2007
Posted at 06:34:20 PM
Photo: Jon Steele The best part of traveling is experiencing interesting situations with the people around you. There is no better way to get to know someone than to embark upon a...Read Now! | Comments (0) |
