|
so happy to be barefoot, well pumping, and pulling into warm water tubes http://bit.ly/2DU6Xv Nov 7, 2009 (via twitter)
Can someone please tell summer to go away and winter to hurry up? (Thu, 11 Sep 2008 Posted at 06:30:00 PM)
Ok, I don't think I can take it anymore. Sure, I like warm water, but I prefer wearing my wetsuit - no worries about sunscreen, keeping a bikini top in place, or that creepy guy that always seems to paddle a few feet behind me to perv out on my bikini-bottomed duckdive. I like sharing the stoke of new surfers feeling the rush of the ocean for the first time, but i'm tired of being scared while paddling out with complete beginners hucking themselves over the falls and sending their longboards flying inches from my head, or the people so clueless they have no idea how priority on a wave is determined and snake you, then think it's your fault. I like surfing different places, but i'm tired of driving to Oceanside or Huntington just to find a wave bigger than knee high. I want to put on my 4/3 and booties in my house, run down to the beach out front, surf until i'm starving, then take my wetsuit off in the shower. I want to worry about shallow sandbars and big sneaker sets not errant longboards and parking meters running out without getting a decent wave. I want to know the name of every surfer in the water and cheer for them when they come out of a tube and then have them cheer for me. I want winter and jeans and shoes and beanies and big burritos earned by long sessions. I want winter! Please come winter..... please!!!!!
|
|