No, that isn't a typo. Yesterday I was blessed with a "surfprise" - you know a surprise, involving surfing.....?
Anyways, my boyfriend sent me a text that the waves looked closed-out but fun and he was going to surf. I had a few things to do on the computer and his text wasn't enough to have me racing to join him in the water, so I cruised a bit, answered some emails, and then finally figured I might as well get wet. I grabbed my fishy shortboard, no leash, no sunscreen, just thinking I'd paddle out for a quick one.
I started jogging down the two blocks to the beach but as soon as I saw the surf I broke out into a full on run! The very first thing I saw was a friend getting a stand-up tube that he came flying out of. I couldn't believe it! I paddled out frantically and immediatlely got a few really good waves. It was short and thumpy, and not every one was perfect, but the water was warm and it was way better than I expected. The hollow closeouts meant that I lost my board a few too many times, so when my boyfriend dragged himself out of the water and off to work, he left me with his.
3 hours later, I got back to work, but with a ton of water in my sinuses and a big smile on my face. A local amateur photographer scored a few sweet shots. Check 'em out!