the swell hit and the flames burned..... (Wed, 31 Oct 2007 Posted at 02:52:16 AM)

last week we had some crazy fires in southern california. they were raging out of control up and down the coast. the craziest thing was that the best swell to hit cali in months hit at the same time. the waves were really good all around san diego. the beaches in oceanside were the best i had ever seen them. the bad part though was the smoke. smoke everywhere. there was literally ashes falling into the water.  i went surfing during the fires all day, four days straight and after those four days i felt like I had smoked 20 packs of marlboros a day for a month. well, now the fires are contained and nobody is being evacuted from their homes. and the waves are gone too. I hope and pray for all those who lost something because of the fires. the fires were lame but the swell was one to remember. peace out.....
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