Hawaii 08
Well Another North Shore season come and gone.   Besides for losing in both Events over here, this season on the North Shore was one of the best I have ever had!!!!!  Epic waves, good weather and all the legends were present.  It started off back in the beginning of November with a good north swell and crystal clear days.  I was staying at my good friend Troy’s house.  He wife Mi is pregnant and sicker than a dog… I felt so bad for her. One more reason I’m glad I’m not a girl, MORNING SICKNESS.   Damn she was barfing every morning starting at 5.00 AM. Not the best way to be woken up every morning.  But the good side of it was I was up every morning at dark psyching for the sun to come up.  The Haleiwa event was small with an inconsistent swell. Things didn’t go my way in that event.  I didn’t catch a wave for the first 15 minutes of the heat.  Being that the heat was only 25 minutes it left me scrambling at the end to find a good wave, which never came.  One down and one more to go. 
The next week was followed by small surf (Hawaiian scale).  Good offshore conditions and fun head high surf pulsed through from V land to Logs.  Perfect for your shortboard and fish. I also moved from Troy’s to Turtle Bay with Mike Losness and Austin Ware..  I also got to play a bunch of golf at Turtle Bay, one of the perks when you’re staying right on the 16th hole.  Its four o’clock who’s ready for a walk on? That was the daily joke for the next week. 
Holy shit! Was our first reaction when we looked at the lola swell charts.  The whole North Pacific was a giant red blob.  Swell forecast for the next week was 12 to 20 feet, There were even rumors of the Eddie Wiamiea possibly running.  So long shortboards and hello to big wave guns. That’s what you come to Hawaii for, Massive, and scary surf. 
That whole week Pipe was on fire.  It was sick to get to surf out there for a week straight.  That doesn’t happen to often and to be there was such a treat.  At the same time I was getting ready for the Sunset contest.  I was getting up at the crack of dawn every morning and straight to Sunset.  Man there was some water moving out there.  When those 12 feet west sets start stacking to the horizon, you feel your stomach drop and adrenaline starting to race.  It’s such a feeling of man vs, nature, and I love it.