I love this time of year in Southern Cali.  The kids are back in school,  weather is cooling down and best of all the waves start to pump.  With the South Pacific still very active (a good run of south swell is going to start filling in over the next couple days) and the North Pacific starting to brew (west swell is on its way down now). its time for south swell walls to get crossed up with incoming north swell and A frames grace all the beach breaks. .  THe time change kicks in and offshore winds greet the early morning sunrise.  The water is still lingering in the mid 60's so the fullsuit is still hanging in the garage.  I have a break in the contest schedule and im able to be home and chase swells up and down the coast.  Hope to see you out in the water,  unless your a grom, 


 go to school.